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OUTDOORS
What happens to the psyche when a person walks and walks, starving and alone?
I went to see the Yeti in Palmerston North. He lived at the end of a cul-de-sac in a 1970s split-level. I brought biscuits. “What are they?” he said. “Chit Chats,” I told him. “They’ll be okay,” he said. Sitting down, I laid them on the carpet, giving them a little nudge so they slid to sit between us. There they would stay, untouched, an offering, for as long as we spoke. Peter Le Fleming was his name, but he’d been called that, the Yeti, in his youth for his beard and long hair. He was in his 60s now, the beard and hair grey, both cropped short. Wrinkles splayed at the edge of each eye. Still he was spry. He wore a tiny pair of shorts, and his bared legs were lithe, suntanned. He had played and refereed rugby as a young man, and he remained a diligent fan, attending all the local games. Rugby almanacs sat in a tidy row on a bookshelf. He had also been a tramper, walking the Ruahine and Tararua Ranges. But it was the Heaphy Track that I had come to talk to him about. Its 78 kilometres, from Golden Bay to the beaches of the upper West Coast, takes in beech and podocarp forest—standard tramping fare—but also plains of tussock, sandy coastal tracks and groves of nīkau palm. Le Fleming had attempted it at age 21, walking the length to arrive at the West Coast, and then doubling back so he might emerge where he started. It was January 1980—one of the wettest Januaries recorded in the region. The track was churned boggy by trampers’ boots, and, about 37 kilometres into the return trip, Le Fleming had to spend an extra day holed up in a hut waiting for bad weather to pass. The next day, as he was crossing a stretch of open ground, the marsh-like Gouland Downs, he fell into a deep pool of water and was soaked through. Even the matches he kept in a plastic bag became damp from condensation. But it was the last leg of his trip. When he left Gouland Downs Hut early on the morning of January 19, the plan was to walk all the way out. He made it first to Perry Saddle Hut, six and a half kilometres to the east, and noted his plans in the hut’s intentions book. He set off again, with a final 15 kilometres to go. It was soon afterwards that something happened. This something has never been clearly defined. “I reckon I had a fall but it could have been a trip or whatever,” he told me. The most likely location of this trip or fall was a wide and consistent stretch of track. Somehow, Le Fleming banged his head severely, cut his back and thighs, and tore a chunk out of the sole of his tramping boot. Whatever happened sent him off the track, disorientated, out into the unmarked spaces of bush. There he wandered for 29 days, a record for as long as we’ve been counting. He remains New Zealand’s longest lost. Keep reading...
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