Seafood is healthy and the world wants more. Too bad that most wild fisheries are overfished and collapsing. Over the last few decades, aquaculture has begun to offer a solution to this difficulty, but it’s not a solution that wins universal acclaim. In New Zealand, the black floats that mark mussel farms (above)—our main form of aquaculture—are often considered an eyesore and an impediment to our unfettered access to sea and shore. But while locals are apprehensive, government and the industry have an eye to expansion.